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Flavours and Fragrances in cosmetics

Flavours are composed of one or more organic compounds with odor, in these organic molecules there are certain aromatic groups. they are combined in different ways within the molecule, so that flavours have different types of fragrance and aroma.

The molecular weight is generally between 26 and 300, soluble in water, ethanol or other organic solvents. The molecule must contain an atomic group such as 0H, -co -, -NH, and -SH, which is called the aromatic group or aromatic group. These hair clusters make the smell produce different stimuli, giving people different feelings of incense.

Classification of Flavors

According to the source can be divided into natural flavors and synthetic flavors. Natural flavor can be divided into animal natural flavor and plant natural flavor. Synthetic spices can be divided into isolated flavors, chemical synthesis and blending flavors, synthetic flavors are divided into semi-synthetic flavors and fully synthetic flavors.

Natural Flavors

Natural flavors refers to the original and unprocessed directly applied fragrant parts of animals and plants; Or fragrances extracted or refined by physical means without changing their original composition. Natural flavors include animal and plant natural flavors two categories.

Animal natural flavors

Animal natural flavors varieties are less, mostly for the secretion or excretion of animals, there are about a dozen kinds of animal flavors available for application, the current use of more are: musk, ambergris, civet incense, castorean these four animal flavors.

Plant natural flavor

Plant natural flavor is the main source of natural flavor, plant flavor types are rich, and the treatment methods are diverse. People have found that there are more than 3600 kinds of fragrant plants in nature, such as mint, lavender, peony, jasmine, cloves, etc., but only 400 kinds of effective use are currently available. According to their structure, they can be divided into terpenoids, aliphatic groups, aromatic groups and nitrogen and sulfur compounds.

synthetic flavors

Synthetic flavor is a flavor compound prepared by chemical synthesis using natural raw materials or chemical raw materials. At present, there are about 4000~5000 kinds of synthetic flavors according to the literature, and about 700 kinds are commonly used. In the current flavor formula, synthetic flavors account for about 85%.

Perfume isolates

Perfume isolates are single flavor compounds that are physically or chemically isolated from natural fragrances. They have a single composition and clear molecular structure, but have a single odor, and need to be used with other natural or synthetic fragrances.

Semi-synthetic flavor

Semi-synthetic flavor is a kind of flavor product made by chemical reaction, which is an important component of synthetic flavor. At present, more than 150 kinds of semi-synthetic fragrance products have been industrialized.

Fully synthetic flavors

The fully synthetic flavors is a chemical compound obtained by multi-step chemical synthesis reaction of petrochemical or coal chemical products as the basic raw material. It is an "artificial raw material" prepared according to the established synthetic route. There are more than 5,000 kinds of synthetic flavors in the world, and there are more than 1,400 kinds of synthetic flavor allowed in China, and more than 400 kinds of commonly used products.

Flavor blending

Blending refers to a mixture of artificial several or even dozens of flavors (natural, synthetic and isolated spices) with a certain aroma or fragrance that can be directly used for product flavor, also known as essence.

According to the function of flavors in blending, it can be divided into five parts: main fragrance agent, and fragrance agent, modifier, fixed fragrance agent and fragrance. It can be divided into three parts: head aroma, body aroma and base aroma according to the flavor volatility and retention time.

Classification of aroma

Poucher published a method to classify aromas according to their aroma volatility. He evaluated 330 natural and synthetic fragrances and other fragrances, classifying them into primary, body and primary fragrances based on the length of time they remained on the paper.

The Poucher assigns a coefficient of "1" to those whose aroma is lost in less than a day, "2" to those whose aroma is lost in less than two days, and so on to a maximum of "100", after which it is no longer graded. He classifies 1 to 14 as head fragrances 15 to 60 as body fragrances and 62 to 100 as base fragrances or fixed fragrances.

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Post time: Aug-23-2024